Difference between, Fresh White Italian Truffle, Black Périgord truffle and Summer truffle - Massimo Vidoni
Chefs tend to be passionate, crazy, hardworking perfectionists—and well, demanding. They’re knife-wielding artists who come up with tastes and combinations that blow our minds. They’re not always the calmest; one time in New York, a very famous (no names mentioned) chef yelled at me to get him white truffles or he’d go with another vendor. Understandable—it's my job as his truffle supplier to deliver! But when he asked for white truffles at the end of February, I replied, “You might as well ask me to get mushrooms from the moon; I can’t get you that either.” I still sell to this chef years later because he knows that if it’s possible, I’ll get it—no BS.
Truffles, I like to say, are a gift from God. White truffles can’t be farmed; they grow only in specific soil and are seasonal. The three most commonly used by chefs are white, summer, and black winter.
White Truffle - The white diamond!
Let’s start with white truffles (Tuber Magnatum). They’re the most expensive because they’re the rarest and have a very short season, usually found in the northwest of Italy, especially in the Piemonte region, most famously in Alba, where the world-renowned truffle market is held.
Taste: It’s hard to describe but utterly delicious, mild, and unforgettable. Once you try it, you’ll forever recognize the smell in restaurants and crave it! White truffles are typically shaved extremely thin over a variety of dishes like pasta, risotto, or simply on eggs. They’re not cooked; the heat of the food is enough to release their flavor and amplify their aroma. You’ll need a truffle shaver for those super-thin slices, so you can get the most out of your truffle.
Appearance: Light golden, creamy colour inside and out.
Season: September to December. ( usually )
Fresh Truffle depending on availabily
Summer truffles (Tuber aestivum)
Also known as Scorzone, aren’t nearly as rare and lack the same depth of flavour and aroma. They’re found in areas of France, Italy, and Spain, and their abundance makes them less expensive than white or black winter truffles. People who are used to eating black winter truffles tend to complain about the lack of flavour. While it’s true they have a less pungent aroma, they can still make an amazing ingredient when used with truffle oil or butter. Often used on pasta or risotto, they’re shaved in at the very end.
Appearance: Black on the outside, white on the inside.
Season: Summer months, June - August ( usually )
Fresh black winter truffles - Black Diamond
(Tuber Melanosporum)
Are often referred to as the Périgord truffle or the black diamond. These truffles are both rare and flavorful, and they tend to be quite expensive like the white ones. They’re found near oak and hazelnut trees in the Périgord region in France and parts of Italy. The Italian black winter truffle, Tuber melanosporum, is also known as Tarufo Nero Pregiato.
The flavour is strong, usually described as nutty and sweet. They’re versatile enough to be briefly cooked, infused into sauces for added depth, or simply shaved fresh as a finishing element—especially amazing on steak.
Appearance: Black on the outside, black on the inside.
Season November - March ( usually )
The truffle business is the most intriguing industry for me. In the middle of the night, people search with dogs, relying on luck, weather, size, shape, and whether they can be taken out of the ground in one piece—all of which affect the cost. In 2018, I got the chance to source one of the largest white truffles in the world, weighing a whopping 1.15 kilograms, which sold for Dh187,000 at Roberto’s restaurant. In 2020, Galliard restaurant bought an 800-gram truffle for Dh125. Who knows what the next white truffle season will bring?
I have sold truffles for over 20 years to the best chefs, each with their own preferences and requests. Truffles are not created equal, and that’s what makes them so exciting!
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